Spring Seeding your Omaha lawn begins now.

Renovating Spring Lawns

and Spot Seeding

In early spring, Thin areas a photos/CrabGrass.4.jpg nd bare spots show up quickly as the rest of the lawn begins to turn green. Winter injury to newly seeded areas is apparent. Dead crabgrass and foxtail form brown patches and bare spots in the otherwise green turf. Heavily shaded areas look particularly forlorn and muddy. New construction around patios and driveways, as well as larger open areas are barren and in danger of erosion. All these areas need prompt attention if they are to be seeded and well-established before hot summer weather arrives.

The good news is that Mother Nature wants to give you some help in greening up your lan and filling in those unsightly bare spots. Grass plants have a biological clock and will beging to sprout and fill as the weather warms. The bad news is that common lawn weeds will also begin almost as fast. The secret to a successful spring seeding project on your lawn is to start early and get the good turf grasses to fill the bare spots before the weeds do.

Can I seed now? The question is always the same. The answer is almost always: YES. Although fall is considered the best time to plant, 70 percent of all grass seed sold in the United States is sold for spring seeding. Today’s lawn problem needs attention today. photos/speed_zone_62x141.gif Waiting for August is simply not acceptable.

Broadleaf Weed Control. Weed control problems can raise the frustration level associated with spring seeding. But patience and timing will help guaranteed success. First, you must distinguish between broadleaf type weeds and annual grass weeds. Broadleaf weeds are the leafy flower type weeds like dandelions and clover that are common in April and May.

If they are a serious problem, broadleafs should be treated once before starting to seed. Weed control products containing Trimec do an excellent job in cool weather. Readily available products include liquid Trimec, Speed Zone, or granular Loveland Weed and Feed. A single application will not kill all your broadleaf weeds, but it will slow them down enough to begin seeding.

Wait five days after weed treatment, water the lawn once and then begin your seeding program. Although some seed may be lost by seeding so quickly, the greater risk is summer’s approaching hot weather.

Step 1- Mow the lawn to a height of 1 ½” to 2”.
Step 2- Rake or sweep the lawn to remove heavy clippings or other debris. Rough the surface of the soil giving special attention to bare spots.
Step 3- Apply Golf Course Starter fertilizer at 8 lbs. per 1000 ft.
Step 4- Spread the seed with a rotary or hand cranked “whirlwind” spreader. Special attention should be given to spots where the ground is bare. Extra seed should be applied by hand to these spots.
Step 5- On bare spots; apply a light mulch of sphagnum peat or PrimeraFC grass dressing. Topsoil and black peats contain weed seeds and should not be used.
Step 6- Water the seedbed lightly so the soil surface is moist. Continue watering lightly so the soil does not become hard or baked.
Step 7- When the seedlings reach a height of 2-3 inches, mow to a height of 3 inches with a sharp mower at a time when the grass is now wet.
Step 8- Mid-April: Apply Tupersan or Siduron based crabgrass pre emergent safe for new seeding
Step 9- Late May: Apply full strength PREVENT Crabgrass Control to all areas that have been mowed at least twic

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Uncle's Tool Box

Pick the Right Tool for the Right Job

If the majority of your lawn is crabgrass or other weeds and very little desirable grass, Loveland Lawns Uncle's Idiot Proof Fall Renovation Program™ using Glyphosate (Round-Up®) should start in August. Short days, cool nights and welcome rain promise lower water bills in September for fall seeding and sodding projects. Homeowners should take a tip from Mother Nature and start their fall over seeding program today. August is a perfect time to plant grass seed.

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If homeowners want a soft friendly feel and lush thick look to their turf, then they should seek out selected bluegrass varieties. Varieties like Envicta® and Abbey® with their distinctive dark color and growth habit will sharpen the appearance of the entire landscape. To improve heat tolerance, add West Texas Hybrid to your lawn mix. For the best bluegrass blend choose Bluemaster®.

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BlueMaster® is a blend of fine bluegrasses specifically blended for the Omaha area. When pampered it will give your lawn the soft, well manicured look of a golf course fairway.

Bluemaster® is an aggressive bluegrass blend that will fill in routine damage from normal wear and tear. In many seasons it will outcompete fescue turf and give your lawn a striking green color when zoysia has turned toasty brown.

If homeowners want to increase wear tolerance and playability without sacrificing good looks, a fine leafed turf rye blend such as Stadium Special™ can be mixed with bluegrasses. These varieties are used on golf courses and sports fields throughout the country for their durability and good looks. For a fast start choose Amazing®. For disease resistance look for Stellar® and Apple®.

Homeowners that place low maintenance at top of their priority list should choose some of the excellent new turf fescues now available. Avenger® and Firebird® have developed a reputation for maintaining a dark green color and low growth canopy. Falcon® and Overtime® show improved disease resistance. Cochise® and Cayenne® show dark color, root strength and durability. These seed varieties are significant advances over coarse early fescue types.

Overtime®: is a top quality hardy fescue blend specifically mixed for Omaha. Fescue varieties are chosen for color, wear, heat and drought tolerance. Overtime® is blended and tested to be free of noxious weeds. Weed contamination routinely found in coarse fescue blends is never found in Overtime®.

When choosing a grass seed mix, read the label carefully. Avoid mixes that contain course bladed varieties such as K-31 pasture fescue and other coarse fescue types. In our area, K-31 is a special problem. By itself, it is a coarse bladed grass best suited for pastures and landfills.

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Fall Renovation

Step 1- Mow the lawn to a height of 1½ to 2 inches.

Step 2- Aerify the turf by slicing, coring, spiking or with dethatching equipment which will help relieve soil compaction and eliminate thatch. Soil should be moist, not wet.

Step 3- rake or sweep the lawn to remove heavy clippings or other debris. Rough the surface of the soil giving special attention to bare spots.

Step 4- Apply Loveland Golf Course Starter™ fertilizer at 8 lbs. per 1000 sq ft rate.

Step 5- Spread your premium Grass Pad seed with a rotary or a hand cranked spreader. Extra seed should be applied to bare spots.

Step 6- On bare spots apply a light mulch of sphagnum peat or Primera One® grass seed dressing. topsoil & black peats contain weed seeds and should not be used.

Step 7- Water the seedbed lightly so the soil surface is moist. continue watering lightly so the soil does not become hard or baked.

Step 8- When the seedling reach a height of 2-3 inches, mow to a height of 3 inches with a sharp mower at a time when the grass is not wet.

Step 9- Reapply Loveland Golf Course Starter™ after 4 weeks

Step 10- to promote deep roots apply Loveland Snowman™ to seeded area in late Fall (Oct/Nov )

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